It had been inhabited since the New Stone Age and its first king was Lelega. The Dorians who came in 1100 B.C. established a Doric centre in Sparta, which gradually grew into a major power that gained supremacy over the whole of Greece after the Peloponnesian War. It was occupied by the Romans in 146 A. D., ransacked by the Goths, while the Slavs settled there on or about 750 A.D.. Franks conquered it in 1205, Turks in 1458, while Venetians held sway from 1685 to 1715. It was liberated in 1828.
Sparta (Km 225)
Built in the heart of a fertile plain near Evrotas River, on the same site as Ancient Sparta had stood, the city forms a modern, well-designed urban centre. It was built originally on the pattern of a blueprint designed by Bavarians in 1834. Ancient Sparta had been created by the Dorians as a state with a special regime. It was the terror of Athens, which explains why clashes between them had been permanent, culminating into the Peloponnesian War, out of which it emerged victorious.
Known as Lacedaemon in Byzantine years, it fell to the Franks after the Fall of Constantinople in 1204, becoming the seat of a feudal compound and a Catholic bishopric. In 1266, although the fort of Mystras had already been built and the Franks handed it over to the Byzantines, its inhabitants abandoned it and the city became deserted. Only a few ruins remain of once mighty and powerful Sparta. Odd remnants of the shrine of Chalkioikou Athinas worshipped up to the 4th Century B.C., the Wall and Roman Arcade. To the west of the temple, excavations led to the discovery of the foundations of the church ot Christ the Saviour with which chaste Nikon had an association (10th Century).
Only a short distance away lie ruins of what is left of the Leonithaio where Leonidas' remains had been carried, to the shrine of Orthias Artemidos and the Menelaeion.
Traces of ruins were discovered at Amykles village, site of the ancient city of the Achaeans of Laconia also called Amykles, while on Vafeios hill, excavations brought to light a domelike tomb dating back to the Mycenean Age. Precious finds discovered in tombs are on display at Athens' National Museum. Sparta has its own archaeological museum with rich exhibits, belonging mainly to archaic years. Around Sparta you may visit the picturesque villages of Anavryti with the Monastery of Faneromeni, Loganikos, Georgitsi and Chrysafa, with its Byzantine churches of Chrysafiotisa (1290), Agion Pandon (All Saints) (1367) and Agios Dimitrios (1641).
Shores
Small but picturesque beaches stretch along the shores of Laconia's two major gulfs, Laconikos and Messiniakos. The only exceptions are sandy beaches at Neapoli, the charming little island of Elafonisos and Gytheion. From Kyparissi to Monemvasia, all shores are good. Those of the Laconic Gulf include Neapolis, Archangelos, Plytra, Elia, Kokkinia, Kyani Akri, Valtaki, Gytheio, Mavrovounis, Vathy, Ayeranos, Kotronas, Kokkala, Agios Kyprianos, Achilleio, Paliros.
Surrounding Countryside
Mystras (Km 5). Suspended on the side of Taygetos, the dead city of Mystras cases a silent gaze over the waters of Evrotas. Once upon a time, it was the capital of Byzantine and Medieval Mvstras. The entire region is protected by a powerful fort built at the top of the hill by William II of Villehardouin in 1249, the most beautiful castle the Peloponnese, as it is referred to characteristically in the Chronicle of Morias. A magnificent landscape will impress you. The beauty of the city remains unchanged. On the northern part, there are palaces and homes of the nobility, and houses of publicans, and churches to the south. That was Pano Hora (The Highlands).
At the end of the 13th century houses were also built round the outer part of the city wall, called Kato or Mesohora (Low or Midlands). At Pano Hora you will marvel at the despot's (landlord's) stately palace and a church dedicated to Agia Sophia (1350). You will also encounter the main chapel of the Monastery ot Perivleptos (l4th century) with its superb frescoes, painted during the reign of Manouil Katakouzinos. You should also make certain not to miss visiting the Monastery of Pantanassa, the churches of Agia Sofia, Evangelistrias, Agion Theodoron and Othigitria.
The Byzantine Museum, housed at the metropolis, has a collection of sculpted exhibits, Byzantine icons, and superb objects of micrography.
Yeraki (Km 40). At the foot of Parnonas stands this village with its traditional residential district on the very site of Ancient Yeronihron.
The ancient city was inhabited since prehistoric years. There are ruins of a protective wall dating back to the Copper Age. It is worth noting that material for constructing ancient buildings had also been used to erect Byzantine churches. You may visit the church of Evangelistria (11th Century), Agios Nicolaos (1 -4th Century). Agios Chrysostomos (12th Century), Agios loannis, Agios Athanasios and Profiris Elias.
A medieval fort stands on a hilltop near the village. It was built in the 13th Century, when (he region belonged to Baron Guy de Divelet during Frank Rule. It was the largest fort in Mystras with many castles, ruins of which still survive. Byzantine monuments may be seen at Vrondamas village.
Molai (Km 73). Ruins of the medieval fort of this small town may soil be seen, as also a Late Christian Period church. Chalasmara site there are mosaics dating back to the Sixth Century B.C. There is a beach that swimmers should find particularly appealing at Elia, nine kilometers away from Molaos.
Yeralos (Km 108). This little harbour lies hidden in the midst of a wild, impressive landscape of unique beauty in the heart of a picturesque fjord.
Monemvasia (Km 95). At the far end of the Peloponnese, a small, dark island juts out of the sea. A thin strip of land links it with the mainland at Yefyra (the bridge), as this coastal "psarohori" (fishing village) has come to be known.
The Fort City of Monemvasia with its one and only gate as its name suggests (Moni=sole, Emvasia=Entrance) turns a dream into reality. That is where Byzantium and the Middle Ages joined hands to bring Time to a standstill.
History unfolds at a quick pace along narrow, cobbled lanes : stone-built, two-storeyed mansions, Byzantine churches wedged between houses, coats of arms.
The site on which the rock now stands was called Minoa, and was probably used by ancient Cretans seafarers as a base. That was where Greeks sought refuge from Slav invaders. They fortified the site using it as a harbour. In subsequent years, they faced frequent raids. Normans tried unsuccessfully to seize Monemvasia in 1147. In 1249, William Villehardouin conquered it after a three-year siege. In 1460, it came under the authority of the Pope, while Venetians followed up to 1550. Turks seized it in 1715, and it was liberated in 1823.
It has rare icons and unique works of art. The church of Agia Sophia overlooks the region at the bleakest part of the rock, and is one of Greece's most beautiful worship spots. Agia Anna, Panagia E Kritikia, Agios Nicolaos and others. You will walk past a mosque converted into a museum, along an uphill path that gakes you to the Fort. Old stone-built mansions now used as inns and hotels form arcades over steps and greenery creating an environment of superb beauty. From Monemvasia you may go on short excursions to Mystra, Areopolis, Mani and the Cave of Dyros. The Fort's pavements host taverns which serve delicacies of rare taste. In the evening, bars at the Fort itself offer a lovely atmosphere.
Neapolis (Km 132). This coastal little town lies on the southernmost tip of the Peloponnese, exactly opposite Elafonisos. There are ruins of buildings and temples of Ancient Voiion still to be seen at the inner part of the Gulf of Voion. It is believed that the city had reached the peak of its glory under Roman Rule, including its harbor used by all Laconians. Sights include a medieval fort at Agia Paraskevi, the Monastery of Agia Eirini, the Cape of Kavo Malia, and Mycenean tombs at Pavlopetri-Pounda.
Near Neapolis you may visit the picturesque fishing village of Profitis Elias, and an equally picturesque residential district, Paradisi, with plane trees and running waters, the Cave of Kastania, and the beautiful villages of Agios Nicolaos, Velanidia, Faraklos and Kampos.
Gytheion (Km 46). Gvtheion has a different character. It was inhabited since early historic times, serving as a trading station to the Phoenicians. During the Peloponnesian War, it was a Spartan naval base, destroyed by Athenians in 455 B.C. Later it was fortified, becoming such a powerful port that, when seized in 195 B.C., it possessed all me necessary
infrastructure for use as an important export harbor. The modern town has an island touch with its neoclassic buildings. To the north of its entrance lies the ancient city with ruins of its acropolis on an adjacent hill, and a theatre of the Roman Era. Exactly opposite Gytheion is Marathonis also called Kranae which, today, is linked with the land across.
According to popular belief, it is the island where Paris and beautiful Helen are said to have spent a night. The Castle of the Tzannetakis family stands in the heart of Marathonisi. The Town Hall houses Gvtheion's archaeological and Bvzantine collection. At a distance of 10 kilometres from Gytheion, on the road to Areopolis stands the Fort of Passavas. It is a Frank fort built in 1254, with its castles still standing.
Areopolis (Km 72). The ancient population of Mani gave this wind-stricken town the name of Aris, god of war. It is unusually picturesque. Its centre has been declared a preservable district. The church of Taxiarches (18th Century) is one of the most beautiful sights of the city, as also the Mavromichalis Mansion which has been restored and is now used as a museum.
Pyrgos Dyrou (83 km). The famous caves of Alepotrypa, Katafygi and Glyfada are here with human remains and Neolithic fossils. Weapons, and tools made of stone or bone were discovered at Alepotrvpa, together with vases and frescoes, and human skeletons dating back to prehistoric times.
Sightseeing at Glyfada cave is done by boat at the part Lying in the sea. You will marvel at the odd shapes and colors formed by its stalactites and stalagmites. Nearby, there are two old churches: Agia Marina and Taxiarchon.
Oitylos (km 82). A picturesque fishing village, built on the site of the ancient city mentioned by Homer. Its coast is one of Mani's most beautiful shorelines. Limeni village, a hotel built according to Mani local tradition stands near the sea, offering a lovely view. It lies close to the beautiful village of Limeni.
Yerolimenas (Km 96). From here to the southernmost part of the Peloponnese, you will encounter southern Mani and its "Kaikia" (skiffs) sailing to parts which are virtually impossible to reach by car. It is worth a trip. All its parts, namely Cape Tainaros, Agios Kyprianos, Kokkala, Kotranas are delightfully beautiful.
Vathda (km 106). Rarely is such beauty encountered: a traditional residential district of Mani, full of castles, most of which have been rebuilt and are used as inns. Atheia is built on the pattern of an acropolis standing on the top of a hill, not far from the sea. Its scone buildings (18th and 19th Century) form densely populated neighborhoods having their own church, square, fortified homes and war castle.
Elafonisos. Just the right spot for a superb vacation at the fabulous shores of this small island racing Neapolis. It is linked with the Peloponnese by ferry or "Kaikia" (skiffs). Simos coast will amaze you. A 1.5 kilometer long beach stretches below sand dunes and cedar trees. To reach it you should sail round half the island by boat or walk five kilometres from Elafonisos residential district. Local taverns serve fresh fish, literally from net to frying pan.
Sport
Windsurfing at Gytheion. Sailing at the Gytheion Sailing Club (27330-23220), swimming at the Sparti Municipal Pool.
Mountain climbing:
Taygetos: to the top of Profitis Elias (2,407 m.) from the lodge at Varvara (1,600 m) in about two and one half hours. Parnon: Megali Touria (1,935 m.) from Agios Petros Kynouria to the lodge at Arnomousga (1,450 m.) by car along a difficult road track and, thence by foot to the top, in about two hours. Information EOS, Sparta, Tel No: 27310-2234.
Events
Spam's Spanathlon, on the last weekend of September. Areopolis, to mark the anniversary of the uprising of the population of Mani in 1821. Vassara, on day of the local "panygeri" (festival) August 23, Panagias Day. Vresthena September 8, birthday of the Holy Mother. Yeraki on Easter Sunday, on St. George's Day (Agiou Georgiou, April 23 ) and on May 2. Goritsa on Eastern Sunday, Christmas and Whitsun (Pendekosri). The Gytheion festival, held at the end of July, includes performances of ancient plays at the ancient theatre of the city. Elafonisos celebrate "-Maritha Day" at the end of September.