Its early inhabitants were the Leleges, of whom the queen was Messeni. After the Dorian descent to the Peloponnese, Messenia was attacked by them in 743 B.C., marking the outbreak of the Messenian Wars. After their defeat by the Spartans, the Messenians left and settled in an Italian city which they called Messeni. They remained under Spartan rule up to 371 B.C., while in 146 B.C., Messeni was occupied by the Romans. As of 395 B.C. began the raids by Goths, Avars and Slavs. In 1205, it was seized by the Franks. Messenia was among the first Greek provinces to take part in the War of Independence and was liberated in 1828.
Kalamata (km238)
Built in (he heart of the Messenian Gulf, with a large coastal front and a long beach, Kalamata,
although repeatedly hit by severe earth tremors, succeeded in regaining its normal pace of life. It
was built near the ancient citv of Farai, mentioned by Homer. It retains the charm of an old, noble
city, through a balanced combination of modern and neoclassical buildings.
In 1209, it was proclaimed seat of a barony and held by the Franks up to 1381, when it had been
taken over by Navarrese and, later, liberated by the Paleologues. Turkish rule followed, except for an interval between 1685 and 1715, when it belonged to the Venitians. On March 23, 1821, citizens of Mani led by Petrobeis Mavromichalis seized the city and proclaimed the National Revolt establishing a free Greek administration there. The Monastery of Nuns, built in the 18th Century, is famous for its silk, woven by the nuns themselves. The most noted churches of the city are Agios Apostolos and the Metropolitan Church of Ypapandi.
The Archaeological Museum of Kalamata is housed at the Bcnaki Mansion. The Museum of Popular Art is noteworthy for its numerous relics of the War of Independence of 1821. The old building also houses the Town Hall, while the library has 60,000 books and a gallery
mainly filled with works by Greek artists. The sea is spotlessly clean, winning a European Union award. Apart from beaches near the city, one may swim even in the harbour.
Beaches
The lovely beaches of Messenia stretch to the Ionian Sea and the Messinian Gulf. On the way to Eleia lie Elia, Kalo Nero, the beach of Kyparissia, Agrilo, Agia Kyriaki, Langouvardos, Marathopoli (harbour of Gargalianoi), Chrysi Ammos or Mati and the Bay of Navarino. On the west part of the peninsula of Karyfasios, is the beautiful beach of Voithokoilia. At the eastern part of the coast of Methone, there are other beautiful beaches: Phoinikounda and Korone, Petalidi, and the famous Bouka (also winner of a E.U. award). From Kalamata to Mani, beach land includes Avia, Almyros, Akroyali, Kanhamyli, Stoupa and Agios Nicokos
Surroundings
Karthamyli (km. 37). Lying next to the lovely, clean waters of the Messinian Gulf, near the entrance to the famous ravine of Vyros, beneath Profius Elias on the tallest crest of Taygeros (alt. 2,704 m.),Kanhamvli is considered the main village of Exo Mani (Outer Mani), as the local population call Messinian Mani. In ancient times, it was used as a harbor by Sparta. Sights include the ancient acropolis, the tomb of Dioskouroii beneath a medieval castle (12th Century,), the beautiful Byzantine church of Agios Spyridon (6th Century), and the Mourdzinou Castle (early 19th Century). At a distance of 300 metres offshore, is the islet of Meropi with ruins of Venitian walls.
Stoupa. It is one of the most beautiful shorelines of South Eastern Peloponnese, with a sound hotel infrastructure and nice fish—taverns. The flow of tourists grows impressively every year. Nicos Kazanrzakis spent a long time in Stoupa, where he wrote "Nicos Zorbas", his famous work.
Messene (Km .11). Near the side of Pamissos River lies the small town of Messeni. Locals also call it Nisi (island), because the river flows all around it. It owes its name to ancient Messene (20 km away), lying further north, near Mavromari village.
It was founded at the western foot of Ithome by Epaminondas in 369 B.C., proclaiming it the new capital. There are some impressive ruins of a wall, 30-storey castles, and four gates leading to a stadium, a theatre, the local assembly, the Asklepeion, the temple of Artemis and other buildings. The city was destroyed in 395 A.D. by Alarichus' Goths. Not so tar from the ancient site of Messeni, at the top of Mr. Ithone stood the Monastery of Vourkanos (Alt. 1,725 m.), next to the famous temple of Ithomata Dios (Zeus).
Kyparissia ( km 18). A small, picturesque, coastal town with plenty of greenery. Epano Poli (Upper Poll) stands out, together with old Kyparissia, its traditional houses and Byzantine castle built on (he site of the ancient acropolis. It joined the Achaian Commonwealth, gaining power under Roman Rule. It was proclaimed seat of barony when Franks seized it, and later it was taken over by the House of the Zacharias. It was freed by Thomas Paleologos, and seized by the Turks in 1460.Only a short distance from Kyparissia are the Monasteries of Agios loannis (Km. 6) and Katzimikanas (km. 8).
Filiatras (Km 83). A large agricultural and trading centre. It has two noteworthy churches. Agios Giorgios, and Evangelistrias. At Gargalianoi, there is a replica of the Eiffel Tower in reduced form. The Monastery of Agios Christoforos stands on a rock. Nearby was the seat of an archbishopric since the 11th century, while the Byzantine church of Metomorphosis to Sotira (Transfiguration of Christ) survives to this day.
Gargalianoi (km 68). It is a small town, built on top of a small hill with a beautiful view of the surrounding region and a beautiful church, Panagia
Chora Trifyuas (km 48). It stands on a sire covered with greenery, Kefalovryso, with plane-trees and running waters. You may go for a swim to the beach at Romanos (km 10) or Yalovas (km 14).
One of the most famous monuments of the Mycenean Age, the palace of Nestor, is found in the region, at Epano Eglianos (Upper Eglianos). It was built in the 13th Century B.C. and destroyed by fire. Excavations led to the discovery of 1,250 little boards of which the originals are kept at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. They bear inscriptions in Linear B script. In 1952, they were deciphered by Ventris and Chadwick in 1952, also making it possible to read Mycenean script, thus offering much information on the lire of that era. The archaeological museum some four kilometres away, is full of interesting finds.
Pylos (Km 50). An interesting city capping two hills near the coast of one of the most beautifully bays in Greece, Navarino, which surrounds the island of Sfaktirias.
Pylos was built in 1829 on the pattern of a plan drawn up by French officers. It has many traditional buildings wit arcades and, at the main square, between tall plane trees, stands the Monument of the Three Admirals who sank a combined Egyptian and Turkish fleet at Navarino
in 1827.
At the western part of the city is Niokasiro, built by Turks in 1573. It ranks among the best preserved monuments in Greece and, at the same time, the prettiest. The castle encloses the church of Metamorphosis to Sotira (Transfiguration of Christ). Outside Pylos there is another
castle, Palaiokastro, built bv Franks in 1278, over ancient ruins.
The rocky island of Sfaktiria, at the entrance to the bay of Navarino, has its own history, both of the remote past and the present. There are remnants of an ancient fort, and cenotaphs of warriors who died at the Bade of Sfaktiria.
Prince Paul-Marie Bonaparte, a nephew of Napoleon the Great, died
aboard the frigate Hellas, and was buried there in 1827.
Korone (km 52). A coastal city shaped amphitheatrically with stately, light-coloured houses with blue or red windows, court yards, flower pots in a variety of colours, and lanes.
A large Venetian fort dating back to the 13th Century stands on the hilltop, to which Turks added further fortifications in the 16th century.
Within the compound of the fort stands the Old Calendar Monastery of Agios loannis. Under Venitian Rule, Koronis was the trading, handicraft and maritime centre of the region.
There are picturesque taverns on the shorefront serving fresh fish dishes, and ouzeries (ouzo bars) with "psaromezethes" (fish appetizers) and pastry shops.
Methone (km 61). Beautiful Merhone, today a small coastal town, was a famous port in ancient times. Venitians built there a fort, considered as the largest and best preserved of its kind. On the southern wing, there is an islet, Bouidzi.
Not far from Methoni is the church of Agios Onoufrios, built in a cage, and the Catholic Monastery of St. Leo.
Finikounda (km 68). A most beautiful "psarohori" (fishing village), among the prettiest in Messinia, with a beautiful, clear sea and much greenery. In recent years, it has grown into a tourist resort. The ancient city of Finikounda stood here, and ruins may be seen at neighboring Anemomylos.
Petalidi (km 26). This lovely coast village, a "psarohori" in older days, is marked by growing tourist activity attracting many visitors in the summer. It is believed that it stands on the site of ancient Koronis. There are two local churches: Agios Nicolaos and Zoodochou Pigis.
Sports
Windsurfing and sailing. The beaches and sea in Messenia lend themselves to such sports. Surfing boards may be hired at the beaches of Kalamata, Kvparissia, Methoni and Finikounda. Information for sailing may be obtained at the Nautical Club of Kalamata (Tel: 27210-23680); basket and volley ball at the national stadiums of Kalamata and Messeni. swimming at the National Pool in Kalamata.
Events
A series of cultural events are held at the municipal cultural centre in the amphitheatre of Kalamata. The local festival is held on February 2 to mark Ypapandis Day. Messeni holds an all-night panegyri on the last Sunday of Apokria (Carnival). Another panegyri lasting eight days is held in September.
Methoni's local tradition of celebrating "To Koutrouli o Gamos"' (Koutroulis' Wedding) is held on Whit Monday. A series of cultural events are held at Kvprarisia, a week-long panegvri at Agia Triada beginning on Holy Cross Day. Pylos events include "Navarinia" in the first fortnight of August, while the anniversary of the naval battle is held on October 20.